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Jean Paul Gaultier Ultra Male Review

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Ultra Male (2015) is one of the loudest, longest-lasting sweet designers we track: candied pear, lavender and black vanilla scoring 9 out of 10 for compliments and 5 out of 5 for longevity. It lasts 12 hours or more, but versatility is 3 out of 5, so it works after dark in the cold, nowhere else. Its clone, Afnan 9PM, copies 80 percent for far less, swapping the pear for apple and cinnamon.

Analyzed by: Álvaro CendraReviewed by: Noelia Ibarra
Published Jul 16, 2026Catalog data verified: Jul 29, 202613 min readHow we test

Ultra Male does one job, and it does it better than almost anything else. Someone walked past you at a party smelling of candied pear, and you did not forget it. The verdict: 9 out of 10 for compliments and 5 out of 5 for longevity, both catalog ceilings (nothing passes 9). Cold weather, after dark. Buy it for exactly that; for daytime, summer or the office, it is money wasted.

Two warnings first. One is a habit when you spray it that ruins the whole thing, and it is not the season. The other is its clone: it copies 80 percent of the smell for a fraction and leaves out the one thing that makes Ultra Male itself.

8.0/10
Worth it
Jean Paul Gaultier · EDTUltra Male

Candied pear over lavender and black vanilla: the night flanker that turned the sailor into a club animal.

  • Longevity
  • Sillage
  • Projection
  • Value
  • Versatility

What Ultra Male smells like: candied pear, lavender and black vanilla

Ultra Male smells like a bright, almost synthetic candied pear sitting on fresh lavender, with a dark vanilla warming the base. It is sweet and juicy from the first second, but the lavender gives it an aromatic edge that keeps it out of pure-dessert territory. If you have smelled a pear sweet stuck to its wrapper, you already know the heart of this fragrance.

The pear is the signature, and it helps to understand it. This is not a ripe pear from the fruit bowl. It is a lab pear, blue and sugary, the note that makes people ask what you are wearing before they know what they are smelling. A mint and a bergamot up top add a cold spark for the first few minutes so it does not cloy on the spray.

Underneath sits the machinery that makes it last. Lavender and a pinch of cinnamon organise the sweetness in the heart, and the base is black vanilla with amberwood, the molecule behind that dry ambery warmth, plus cedar. That base is what leaves your hoodie smelling of pear two days later.

Main accords

Sweet runs the show, with an aromatic lavender and a spiced lift underneath. The sillage, meaning the trail you leave as you pass, is the kind that enters a room before you do. Two sprays fill a lounge. Picture the vanilla of Le Male but with candied pear instead of clean barbershop, and the volume cranked for a nightclub.

How long Ultra Male lasts, and the third-spray trap

Longevity is the legend here. It scores 5 out of 5 on our scale, the highest in the catalog, and the longevity votes on Fragrantica cluster near the top of the range: 12 hours or more on skin, and several days on clothing. The problem with Ultra Male is not that it fades fast. It is the opposite: it barely fades, which is exactly why it is so easy to overdo.

The arc matters more than the single number. The first hour or two announce you: it fills the space, and people who pass by notice with no effort from you. From the third hour it drops in volume and settles close to the skin, but it does not vanish; it stays as a sweet aura well into the night. On fabric it stretches even further, sometimes too far.

Here is the habit that ruins it, and it is not the weather: the third spray. With projection at 4 out of 5 and this kind of stamina, one spritz is already a statement, two is the most anyone needs, and three turn it into a cloud that walks into the room ahead of you and gives people a headache in an elevator. Less is more is not a nice-sounding tip here. It is the line between a compliment and a complaint.

Weather tips the balance the rest of the way. Cold contains the sweetness and makes it elegant; heat swells it until it turns heavy and dizzying indoors. On oily skin it grips better and lasts longer, so go even lighter there. On dry skin, an unscented lotion first helps it hold. If you already know you want it, this is the moment.

When to wear it, and when it backfires

Ultra Male is a fall and winter scent for the evening, and heat is its enemy. Versatility sits at 3 out of 5, the same as Le Male and below a do-everything scent like Acqua di Gio (5). With that 5-out-of-5 longevity and that sugar, cold keeps it in check and summer lets it loose. It is a fragrance that does one thing brilliantly and refuses to do the rest.

Its range is wide inside the cold. October to March it delivers for a club, a Saturday night out, a first date somewhere with music, any evening plan where you want to be noticed. A New Year's Eve party is its perfect setting. For the office it only works with one discreet spray on clothing and a crowd that tolerates sweet scents. For the summer gym, forget it.

If a head-turning cold-weather scent is exactly what you want, it ranks among the best of its kind; our best winter fragrances for men puts it against its seasonal rivals. For heat, no spray-count trick saves it. In July, do not bother.

Ultra Male vs the 9PM clone: what Afnan copies and what it drops

Afnan 9PM is the documented clone of Ultra Male: 80 percent of the same smell from the budget tier, scoring 8 out of 10 for compliments against the original's 9. But the 20 percent it does not copy is the signature itself. Where Ultra Male puts candied pear and lavender, Afnan 9PM puts apple and cinnamon, so the opening reads more like a spiced holiday dessert and less like sweet barbershop. It also loses a longevity point (4 out of 5).

OriginalJean Paul Gaultier Ultra Male
  • Afnan9PM

    The documented Arab clone, for a fraction of the price.

    Where it falls short: Apple and cinnamon where the original puts candied pear and lavender; the opening is more candied, less barbershop.

    Match80%

Clones match the general vibe, not necessarily the exact drydown or longevity. Price is confirmed at the store.

Put it in money terms. 9PM gives you almost the whole social payoff at drugstore pricing, and at most parties nobody clocks the difference between pear and apple by the third drink. What you buy by stepping up to Ultra Male is not more compliments, it is the exact pear that hooks people, one more hour of wear, and the finish of a big house. If you will use the season hard, the signature shows; if it comes out three times a year, 9PM's saving makes more sense.

Jean Paul GaultierUltra MaleFull reviewAfnan9PMJean Paul GaultierLe Male
Score8.07.77.9
Longevity5/54/54/5
Sillage4/54/54/5
Value4/55/54/5
Versatility3/53/53/5
ConcentrationEDTEDPEDT
Main accordsSweetSweetSweet
Best seasonsFall, WinterFall, WinterFall, Winter
GenderMenMenMen
Check price

The short rule: start with Afnan 9PM if you have never worn this sweet nightclub profile. If it wins you over and you want the version everyone else is smelling, step up to the original. For 9PM lined up against every other bottle sold as a copy, our Ultra Male dupes guide sorts the one real clone from the pretenders.

Ultra Male vs Le Male: original against flanker

Ultra Male (2015) is the night flanker of Le Male (1995), and the same perfumer signs both: Francis Kurkdjian, who composed it the same year he launched his Baccarat Rouge 540. There are twenty years and two compliment points between them. Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male scores 7 out of 10; Ultra Male, 9. The flanker did not reinvent anything: it pushed up the pear and vanilla, dialled down the freshness, and turned the clean sailor into a club animal.

The stated intent was a reinterpretation of the original's sensuality through gourmand effects and modern woods, which is the polished way of saying it got sweeter and stickier on purpose. The choice between the two is about character, not quality. Le Male smells clean, lavender and mint with expensive soap, and covers more of the day. Ultra Male smells like a party, candied pear, and demands the night.

If you want one bottle from this family for most occasions, Le Male is the sensible call. If you want the one that racks up compliments on a winter night and you do not mind that it fails everywhere else, Ultra Male is yours. You are not asking the same thing of each one. A third link sits between them, iced instead of candied: what the Versace mint-sweet actually delivers.

Is Ultra Male too young for a grown man to wear?

This is the question that splits every thread, and both camps are right at once. To one nose Ultra Male is a party magnet, seductive and addictive, the kind of thing that gets you stopped at the bar. To another it is a "teenager scent": too sweet, too immature, too common in every club. They are not contradicting each other. They are smelling the same juice through different ages and expectations, and dose decides as much as taste.

So the honest answer on age is that it is not the years, it is the setting and the dose. Worn once with one spray to a winter night out, a grown man gets the compliments and none of the baggage. Worn heavy to a Tuesday meeting, it reads exactly like the cliche. If you already own plenty of fresh, versatile scents and want a loud sweet one for the weekend, it earns its slot; you can see who it beats in our most-complimented fragrances ranking.

Buying Ultra Male today without overpaying

The smartest move on a loud, polarizing bottle is to sample before you commit. A decant costs more per milliliter than a full bottle, but it removes the real gamble with a sweet this divisive: paying full price to find out your nose sits in the other camp. Wear it a full winter day, in the settings you actually had in mind, before you spend on 125 ml you might reach for six times a year.

A few practical notes for a 2026 buyer. Ultra Male is one of the most counterfeited men's fragrances on the planet, so the batch code printed on the box and the base of the bottle matters: use it to confirm the production date and cross-check authenticity. Be aware, too, of an ongoing reformulation and discontinuation debate on this one, which is why batch matters more here than on most designers.

It comes in 40, 75 and 125 ml eau de toilette (EDT); since it performs on so little, the 75 ml is the sweet spot for most people. In the US and UK this thing is everywhere in the clubs, so set expectations: you are buying compliments, not exclusivity. Buy from a seller with a clear return policy; the big marketplace's 30-day returns are a real, checkable safety net, and the how to spot a fake fragrance guide covers the rest.

Where to buy

Ultra Male
125 ml EDT

Pros

  • Longevity among the highest we track: 12-plus hours
  • Compliments 9/10: turns heads on a cold night
  • Candied pear hard to find in another designer
  • Big impact from one or two sprays

Cons

  • Useless in heat or closed spaces
  • Low versatility: a seasonal scent
  • Easy to overdo on the third spray
  • The 9PM clone gets close for far less

FAQ

What does Ultra Male smell like?

It smells like a bright, sugary candied pear over fresh lavender, with a dark vanilla and amberwood warming the base. A mint and a bergamot add a cold spark for the first few minutes. It is very sweet, close to a fruit sweet, but the lavender gives it an edge that keeps it out of pure-dessert territory. In one line: candied pear for a night out, not fruit from the bowl.

How long does Ultra Male last?

It scores 5 out of 5 on our scale, the highest in the catalog, and Fragrantica votes sit near the top of the range, logging 12 hours or more on skin and several days on clothing. It projects hard for the first hour or two, then settles into a sweet aura that lasts into the night. Cold weather and oily skin stretch it further; heat shortens it and turns it heavy.

Is Ultra Male worth it, or is the 9PM clone enough?

It depends how much you will wear it. Ultra Male wins on the exact pear that hooks people, one longevity point (5 versus 4) and a big-house finish, scoring 9 out of 10 for compliments against 9PM's 8. But Afnan 9PM gives you 80 percent of the effect at budget pricing. Use the season hard and the original earns its keep; reach for it three times a year and the clone more than does the job. The full cost per wear math sits in whether Ultra Male earns its price.

Is Afnan 9PM a good clone of Ultra Male?

It is the most-cited clone of this profile, at 80 percent similarity in our data. The difference is the opening: 9PM puts apple and cinnamon where the original puts candied pear and lavender, so it reads sweeter and less like a barbershop. It gives up one compliment point and one longevity point. At most parties nobody notices; to a pear fan, the swap is obvious.

Ultra Male vs Le Male: which one should I get?

Le Male is the 1995 original: clean, aromatic, lavender and mint with expensive soap, and it covers more of the day. Ultra Male is the 2015 sweet flanker, candied pear and night, with two more compliment points (9 versus 7). Want one flexible bottle? Le Male. Want the winter nightclub weapon? Ultra Male. They are two branches of the same tree, not rivals for the same slot.

Is Ultra Male too young for a grown man to wear?

Not by itself; the setting and the dose decide it. One spray to a winter night out gets a grown man the compliments and none of the teenager stigma. The reputation comes from people wearing four sprays to daytime settings where a loud sweet scent does not fit. If you like how it smells, wear it after dark, keep it to one or two sprays, and age stops being the issue.

How many sprays of Ultra Male should you use?

Very few. With projection at 4 out of 5 and this longevity, one spray is already a statement and two is the most anyone needs. Three or more turn it into a cloud that bothers people in closed spaces and earns it the overly-sweet reputation. Start with one on the chest, and only go to two for a night when you really want to stand out.

Key facts

Compliments9/10
From going unnoticed to drawing comments
Perceived gender
WomenUnisexMen
Tier: Designer

Designer price: you pay for the brand and consistency.

Best seasons
SpringSummerFallWinter
Day / NightNight

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