Francis Kurkdjian

Golden amber of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla: Kurkdjian's bottled sunset, warm without being gourmand.

The most imitated sweet-woody of the last decade: saffron, jasmine and a luminous amber that signs itself on skin.

Candied pear over lavender and black vanilla: the night flanker that turned the sailor into a club animal.

Lavender, mint and vanilla in the sailor torso: thirty years on it still smells like freshly ironed clean.